This or that? Assateague, Maryland vs. Assateague, Virginia
- Laura Scharle
- Apr 9
- 7 min read
Updated: 7 days ago
Not sure whether or not you want to visit Assateague, Maryland or Assateague, Virginia? Or maybe you’ve been to one side but not the other? Visiting both in one day can be tricky, since it’s about an hour drive between the Maryland entrance and the Virginia entrance.
Although it’s all one barrier island, it’s not just the Assateague Island National Seashore. You’ve also got to consider that the Maryland side has Assateague State Park and the Virginia side has the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Talk about confusing!
But not to worry. We’re here to break it all down so you can decide which side of Assateague - Maryland or Virginia - is best for your next visit. Whether you’re interested in wildlife-viewing, hiking and biking trails, camping, beach access, facilities, or fees, we’ve got you covered.
Wildlife
Let’s start with the basics. Wild horses. Or wait - are they ponies? Either way, most first-time visitors to Assateague are excited to see these famous creatures meandering about the stunning barrier island scenery. There’s a lot of debate as to their origin (they landed here after a shipwreck, pirates abandoned them, early settlers used them to help round up cattle on the island), but we’re not here to debate the history any further.
Technically and genetically, they are horses. Wild horses that have been affectionately referred to as ponies for many years. There are two herds on the island that are kept separate by a fence along the state line. The Maryland herd is owned by the National Park Service, whereas the Virginia herd is owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company. The Maryland herd roams freely about the island and the Virginia herd is confined to specific areas of the island.
In Maryland you’ll see them on the beach, in the campground, and sometimes standing in the middle of the road. They’ll get into your cooler and steal your food, they’ll poop right next to your picnic table, and occasionally you’ll see them frolicking along the surf. It’s important to note that they are wild animals that can kick, bite, and charge, so be sure to stay at least 40 feet away from them (the length of a school bus) at all times.
In Virginia, they won’t be near your food and you don’t run the risk of them causing traffic jams. In most cases you will spot them in the marshes from a distance, so be sure to bring the zoom lens on your camera if you want to capture that perfect, iconic “Chincoteague pony” shot.
Aside from wild horses, another popular wildlife-viewing activity at Assateague is birding. Located on the Atlantic flyway, all kinds of migratory birds pass through, nest, or spend the winter on and around the island. A variety of waterfowl can be spotted in the winter, and all kinds of shorebirds can be seen in the summer. Since the Virginia side of Assateague is also a National Wildlife Refuge, there are several impoundments of shallow water that - in general - tend to attract more species of migratory birds than the Maryland side.
Trails
Both sides of the island have trails, but there’s a few things to consider when choosing which side based on trails. The Maryland side has a single bike trail that is about 5 miles long, leading from the visitor center on the mainland to the entrance of the OSV zone. It crosses the Verrazano bridge which provides sweeping, elevated views of the Sinepuxent Bay and the island itself. It’s particularly beautiful at sunrise!
The Maryland side also has three short walking trails, all of which are ADA-accessible, but do not allow dogs or bikes. Each of these trails - Life of the Marsh, Life of the Forest, and Life of the Dunes - is no longer than 0.4 miles long and they offer some beautiful views of the bay, marsh, and maritime forest. The walking trails are located within the national park (as opposed to Assateague State Park).
In Virginia, the bike trails are a bit more extensive, with nearly 10 miles of trails lacing across the refuge. Wildlife Drive is a 3-mile loop that is connected to more trails that pass by the National Wildlife Refuge visitor center and lead all the way out to the beach and the National Park Service visitor center on Tom’s Cove. There are also several short walking path spurs that stretch out from the paved bike paths. But since this is a wildlife refuge, dogs are not permitted, even on the bike trails and the beach.
Beach Access
Both the Virginia and Maryland sides have ample beach access, but the options do differ. If you’re headed to Maryland, you’ll have to choose whether or not you wish to visit the State Park or the National Park. The state park offers a concession stand with food for purchase during peak season, as well as a bathhouse with showers and flushing toilets. The national park on the Maryland side has a large, paved parking lot, and just pit toilets, changing stalls, and outdoor faucets for rinsing sand off at the end of the day. They do not have a concession stand.
The Virginia side of Assateague also provides beach access with a large, unpaved parking area and seasonal port-o-jons. Both ends of the island have beach lifeguards in the summer.
Both sides of Assateague also offer OSV (Over-Sand Vehicle) access in which visitors can purchase a special OSV pass to drive 4WD vehicles on the beach. The Maryland OSV zone stretches 12 miles down to the state line and caps the number of cars in that 12 mile stretch to 145 vehicles. The Virginia OSV zone is only about 3 miles and allows up to 48 vehicles. Please note that there can frequently be restrictions on how much of the beach is accessible due to nesting birds or surf conditions. Updates and maps can be viewed here.
Bayside Access
There are several spots to access the bay on the Maryland side of Assateague. The State Park has a boat ramp and crabbing pier on the mainland. The National Park has Bayside Drive and Ferry Landing that both offer access to the bay. Kayaks and paddleboards can be launched at both spots, and Bayside Drive even has Assateague Outfitters that offers paddlecraft rentals. Ferry Landing provides a crabbing pier, and a portion of it is even ADA-accessible.
On the Virginia side of Assateague, there is crabbing access along the side of the bridge leading onto the refuge before the entrance. Kayaks and paddleboards can access the bayside shorelines of Tom’s Cove, but certain areas are closed seasonally, and other areas are closed year-round. Check out the Virginia shoreline access map here. There are no outfitters that operate from within the Virginia side of Assateague, but there are several kayak and boat tour companies that will leave from the town of Chincoteague to show visitors the bayside of the refuge.
Camping
To sum it up, the Maryland side of Assateague allows camping and Virginia does not since the Virginia side is a National Wildlife Refuge.
The Maryland side does have several options for camping: the State Park campground, the National Park campgrounds, and backcountry camping. The State Park campground is located steps to the beach and welcomes both tent and RV camping. The bathhouses have flushing toilets and hot showers, but only a portion of sites have electric hookups, and the campground is also only open from May through October. Fire rings are provided at each campsite, but fires are not permitted on the beach.
The National Park offers both oceanside and bayside campgrounds that are open year-round, where the standard sites welcome both tents and RVs. There are also walk-in sites that are only for tent campers and are closest to the beach - only steps away. Be sure to bring some sand stakes for your tent as it can get quite windy! The National Park campgrounds have restrooms, but they are more primitive than the state park with pit toilets and cold showers.
For those looking for a more rugged camping experience, the National Park also has two hike-in backcountry sites and four paddle-in sites. These sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis by obtaining a permit from the Maryland ranger station on the day you wish to camp. Pets are prohibited at the backcountry campsites.
Visitor Centers & Historic Sites
Both sides of Assateague have visitor centers and historic sites to enjoy. In Maryland, the main visitor center is located on the mainland just before crossing the bridge to the island. It features a variety of interpretive exhibits about the island’s natural and cultural history, as well as a few aquariums with various species of marine life. There is also a small nature center within the Assateague State Park campground.
On the Virginia side, there are two visitor centers - one managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, and the other located right next to the beach, operated by the National Park Service.
The Maryland side of Assateague features an original 1878 U.S. Life-Saving Service boathouse, where visitors can learn about the U.S. Life-Saving Service, precursor to the U.S. Coast Guard. In Virginia, visitors can climb the 1867 Assateague lighthouse, located within the wildlife refuge. In addition, for those that are interested in walking 1.5 miles down the beach, visitors can walk around the exterior of the 1922 Assateague Beach Coast Guard Station.
Fees and Rules
Even though the Maryland side of Assateague’s National Seashore is a National Park Service site and the entrance of the Virginia side is managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, your pass can be used at either location, whether you purchase a weekly or annual pass at either location. The Virginia side also offers daily passes, but daily passes are not accepted on the Maryland side.
Assateague State Park in Maryland charges a daily entrance rate that is charged per person in the summer and per vehicle in the off-season. The daily state park entrance pass is not accepted at the National Park.
Because the Virginia side of Assateague is primarily a National Wildlife Refuge, there are more restrictions than the Maryland side. Dogs are not permitted on the Virginia side (sorry!) and neither is alcohol consumption.
You made it to the end of the great Assateague comparison! It’s a lot of information and there are so many options to consider when choosing which side to visit, but no matter which you choose, time won’t be wasted because you’ll be spending time exploring this stunning island and enjoying the great outdoors.
